Saturday, January 2, 2010

Sapphire in the Bay of Islands

I stayed on the boat at the Opua Marina for just over a week. I rested and caught up on sleep and went out for hearty restaurant meals, and reflected on the journey I had just completed. I frequently went back to my Log and read what I had written each day, and looked at the Chart of the Tasman Sea with all the daily positions plotted on it with my usually blunt pencil, and I re-read my Blog postings and looked at the photos and videos I had taken during the passage - "yes" i kept telling myself, "Ive really done it, Ive sailed across the Tasman Sea by myself". And I felt tremendously proud of Sapphire for having been so reliable and so kindly a yacht, for having looked after me and for getting me home safely. At night I slept on board in my sea birth as before and didnt really want to go ashore. It had been an amazing experience but at times I wondered if maybe I had just been incredibly lucky to have made it.
I remembered years ago being told by a woman whose husband had done a lot of sailing,that Jesse Martin was a fool for even attempting to do what he did, and he only succeeeded because he was exceptionally lucky. Her contempt was barely disguised, so I kept my own dreams to myself on that occasion. But still I did wonder, was my success also due to what someone else suggested was just "Dumb Luck"?

Well firstly I realised that "Luck" is certainly part of anyones success, be they sailors, politicians, olympians, farmers or Rock Stars - we all benefit from lucky things as basic as not picking up a cold, or not having someone drive their car into us at the lights, or a spell of good weather, or just happening to run into the right person at the right time. And certainly running into John on Errisea at Lord Howe island was fantastic luck for me. But I have also heard it said that the harder you work, the luckier you get! And certainly, I had done lots of work - or at least Jason and various other shipwrights had done lots of work on Sapphire, making her as strong and safe and dry as we were able with the resources we had.
And as for "Dumb?" Well I had applied the full force of my own intellect, such as it is to the task, right from the very beginning when going to the sailing school,to the Safety at Sea and marine radio and Diesel courses, to working out what sort of yacht I could get, to what sort of equipment and upgrades were needed, to reading and to sailing and learning from every day on board,to preparing for the trip and then, at sea thinking as hard as I could about everything that was happening and the best way to anticipate or deal with problems that arose along the way. I was of course always very aware of my own lack of experience, and because of that I probably needed a little more luck than others might, and even now I dont regard myself as particularly experienced, but I have learned a lot! I guess you could say where I was dumb was in experience. Anyhow, I did it and I'm still amazed! The best day of all was the last one, that started in depressing fog and then developed into a terrific day of sailing down the coast in sunshine and with Dolphins and then finished with a bit of drama followed by some drunken revelry.
Unfortunately however I had to return to work. I found a secure swing mooring near the Marina and after tidying up, left Sapphire on the mooring and returned to Australia to work and pay off some Bills. It was extraordinary to look down from the Jet as we sped back across the Tasman, to see the sea and the white caps way below and to think to myself, "Ive been there".
I will be returning to Sapphire in three months, and have already started to draw up a list of work needed before my next sailing adventure : those pesky leaks, the Vang thats not been properly repaired, the Bolts on the Hydrovane.... I was thinking of going to Tonga in May but might defer that a year so I can have some adventures around the Bay of Islands and Northland.
Happy New Year everyone.

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Crossing the ditch : Photos (1) : Click on the Pic to get a decent sized image

Tropical Bush on Lord Howe Island


A View across the Lagoon


Sunset on the Lagoon


Yachts Antares and Errisea at North Passage moorings


Sunsets were always amazing

Couscous with spices tomato and nuts

Sunset over a smooth midtasman sea

Crossing the Ditch: Photos (2)

Rice and a tin of Irish Stew


New Zealand? Straight ahead

First Glimpse of New Zealand through the rising fog


Fog


Sunrise over the ocean


Cavalli Islands off the Northland Coast


The Ninepin, northern border of Bay of Islands



Crossing the Ditch : Photos (3)

Windless glassy sea in the middle of the Tasman

Balls Pyramid

Sapphire (middle yacht) at her mooring, North Passage, Lord Howe Island

Approaching Lord Howe Island, Monday, November 16th 2009

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Yes, I made it!

This was going to be brief update, then it became a long one, then I lost the whole lot. So I went ashore and had my first shower and a pie and some coffee, and now I am going to redo the email. I just wanted everyone to know that I got here about 8.30pm yesterday, November 30th, and all is well.

Yesterday was an absolutely marvelous day, from the first glimmer of light when that god awful mist started to lift and I caught my first glimpse of New Zealand off Cape Karaekare, to having a joyful family of dolphins playing around Sapphire for over an hour - one was a gorgeous baby dolphin, maybe 3 feet long,- to sailing along the fully revealed Northland coast, passing places I last saw about 30 years ago as a teenage fisherman, and remembering the adventures from way back then, to having the wind pick up to 16 or 18 knots and be sailing perfectly,to swerving to avoid a massive sunfish lolling in the ocean off Stephnsons Island - these things are huge and can damage a boat - to rounding the Cavalli Islands and seeing the Bay of Islands opening up before me, to rounding the last point in the river and seeing my old school friend Hilton and his wife and my brother on the wharf waving and shouting at me, cheering and whistling as I motored towards the Quarantine Wharf 400 yards away. It had all been absolutely fantastic. I could hardly believe after all I had been through I was finally here.


And then without warning,the motor stopped dead. I had run out of Diesel!

And to make matters worse I was about to cross in front of the Car Ferry that shuttles back and forth from the Opua side to the Russell side...I had calculated there would be more than enough Diesel to motor in from out beyond the "Ninepin" a prominent jutting triangular rock at the northern limit of the Bay, but then because I just wanted to get in, and it was getting late, I ended up having the motor running a lot faster than I usually do, and consequently, the Fuel was used up much sooner than it otherwise would have been, with the inevitable result. At that moment, the wind was quite strong and directly behind me so it kept me going in the direction I needed to, and once I had realized what the hell had happened and given it three seconds deep and comprehensive analysis I was able to veer sharply across in front of the Ferry and out of its way. Now I had about 300 yards left and we were being pushed along at 3 knots! Now I had to think really fast because in front of me on the starboard side was the Q Wharf - as they call the Quarantine WHarf- and on the other side and on beyond the Q wharf was a shallow Bay jam packed with moored yachts, launches barges and cruisers, and I had maybe 2 minutes before I would be aground on the far side of this little Bay if I didnt stop the boat. I quickly ran forward and hauled the anchor and some chain out of its locker and put the anchor in its roller - I was going to get blown past the Q Wharf and into the yachts and I hoped I would be able to swing round to Port and find a clear spot among the yachts to drop the anchor and bring the boat to a halt. ...Now the Q Wharf was on the starboard side about 40 feet away and I was swiftly moving along parallel to it - - it was basically a 100 yard long floating dock , 10 feet wide with boats tied to it one behind the other but they were all on the other side - the side facing Sapphire was free of boats and I suddenly realized that instead of swinging to Port and dropping the anchor, it might be feasible to swing to Starboard, do a sort of U Turn and face the boat back up into the wind which would stop it before blowing it backwards and turning it all round again - but if I could get it right I might be able to bring it to a standstill right by the Q Wharf. And that's exacts what I did! I had some help from a French sailor who looked up as I swept silently by and I yelled out to him " Help me - I have no power, I have no power" and fortunately he got the message and ran across as I swung the boat in and around, and incredibly it stopped right in front of him, I ran forward and handed him the mooring line which I had prepared, along with the fenders an hour or so before, and he made it fast to a cleat. I was on the Q Wharf! And he said " Its OK, Its OK, everything s fine , you're OK well done, well done its Ok " I think he could see I was a little agitated!

One of these days I'll have a totally uneventful arrival somewhere - that will be nice! But gee it felt good to be there. And how true it is, the show aint over till the Fat Lady sings!

So there I was on the Q Wharf, which for (obviously) Quarantine purposes , is not connected to a marina or to the shore at any point. The idea is you stop there, Customs and Quarantine come on board , do their checks and once you're cleared, you can motor off to wherever you like. The trouble was they had all gone home for the day, and I was ordered to remain onboard till the morning, and no one was permitted to visit. How intensely frustrating! And there was my welcoming party out on the end of an adjacent pier shouting across at me and welcoming me home, wondering when we could all go out for a drink! I had to shout back that I wasn't allowed off the boat till the morning so we just shouted across at each other for half an hour or so. And it was a whole heap better than having no one to talk to.

Now I know we are all friends on this Blog and so I feel I can safely tell you a little secret : a little later , I became an Illegal Immigrant, sneaking ashore with the help of a bloke who happened to row by in a dinghy. What the hell - I was already an illegal emigrant! It was so good just to hug my friends and my brother and to talk face to face, and we sat on the end of that pier in the dark having a little picnic and some wine and later some Bourbon, catching up on all the latest excitement. I decided I better not head into town and a restaurant or a pub - that would be pushing it a bit - besides I was still wearing the shirt and shorts I had on when I left Lord Howe, plus my life jacket, harness and tether, and I hadn't had a shower for nine days so I think eyebrows may have been raised, if not suspicions! After about three hours we "borrowed" a dinghy and I was returned to exile on the Q dock and my welcoming party returned home. It had been a marvelous marvelous day! And wow, did I sleep!

This morning, Quarantine and Customs duly arrived , formalities were completed and I was given a beautiful present, a hand made woven flax Maori Kit Bag, and clearance to leave the Q Dock. But first I had to get some diesel - and I borrowed 20 litres from a wonderful Norwegian sailor off a big battered and sturdy steel yacht on the other side of the Q Dock. Then to get the motor started - because it wouldn't , and I knew why - I had to "bleed" the entire fuel system. This is because once you run out of fuel you get air in the line and the fuel pump wont work and neither will the motor. Having been to the Diesel For Beginners class, I knew exactly what to do, and to my amazement, once I had "bled" the system, the motor roared back into life. I was quite proud of my first effort as a Diesel mechanic!

I then cast off and motored around to Berth E58 where I will stay for a few days while I work out what to do next! Thanks everyone for your support, thoughts wishes encouragement, jokes, advice and for just being out there and helping me along.
I am on Cloud Nine - but still a little tired.

Sapphire Out.

ps I will find an Internet Cafe tomorrow and post some photos.



----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com/


Monday, November 30, 2009

I just saw land


Sailing is awesome. I'm nearly there. Love youse all.

Night Crossing of Great Exhibition Bay


Well I've got to say this is not at all how I imagined my homecoming would be. I've been close to land for nearly 24 hours and all I've seen is sea mist and fog,and the fog is making everything on the boat wet, and its cold and miserable. Worse than that though is the complete loss of significant visibility, so the Lighthouse lights and the lights of ships or fishing boats or other yachts would only be visible within maybe a kilometer. My AIS will warn me about ships, and did once during the night, the ship eventually appearing further out to sea from me and heading in the same direction. It was traveling at 14.6 knots and sounded its fog horn every few minutes. Earlier in the night I had heard the FogHorn from the North Cape lighthouse, about 8 miles away, a long deep note sounded every couple of minutes,but I never saw its light, which ordinarily is visible on a clear night 18 miles away. But the night was really quite scary and now though its daylight, I haven't seen the sun and its not much less scary. Sunshine and a bit of warmth to dry everything out would be lovely right now....

So we remain in the fog and the one blessing, such as it is, has been the wind increasing from a useless 5 knots to closer to 10, which can enable some useful sailing, albeit still slow, around 4 knots. I listened to the forecast and they were predicting winds to increase to 20 knots today, but I'll believe that when I see it. Meantime I'll just wait and watch, hopefully to see the sun and improving wind and boat speed, and maybe New Zealand, the nearest bit of which Cape Karekare is apparently only 5 miles away. I heard its fog horn earlier. Soon though I will have to gybe back seaward to keep the boat moving with the win directly behind, so I will be surprised if I get to Opua before 6....I just hope it not raining there!

Sapphire Out

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com/